F I R S T I M P R E S S I O N
R A T H B U N 'S
By CHRISTIANE LAUTERBACH
Atlanta Magazine
Published in: September, 2004
Some people may have seen it coming, but others who live on
the Southern fringe of Inman Park woke up one morning to the realization that
$30.00 steaks and rare wines had arrived in the neighborhood together with such
upscale concepts as small plates of seafood crudo and a la carte side dishes.
Chef Kevin Rathbun's bold relocation from Buckhead to the Stove Works is
huge news. With his wife, Melissa, and pastry chef and longtime friend,
Kirk Parks, with who he worked at NAVA, he finally gets to let his hair down
with fun signature items from all over the map. He even makes his own
mozzarella and uses his mother-in-law's recipe for eggplant steak fries with
confectioner's sugar. Atkins-friendly "Second Mortgage" (higher priced)
plates occupy a highly visible but minor spot on an enormous menu dominated by
such affordable and delicious dishes as braised brisket in smoked tomato with
poblano quesadillas and a delicious, hearty appetizer of P.E.I. mussels on
sourdough toast with golden chives and Vermont sweet butter. The
restaurant has a vigorous industrial look, a power clientele and a superlative
patio. C.L.