Left overs go right; brothers/chefs Kent and Kevin
Rathbun trade sibling rivalry for kitchen cooperation when they dig into
leftovers for a post-holiday Sunday brunch.
Better Homes & Gardens, Nov, 2003, by Stephen Exel
Everyone pitches in to prepare Thanksgiving dinner when the Rathbun clan others for the holiday. But come Sunday morning, brothers Kent and Kevin are on their own to prepare the final feast of the weekend, Sunday brunch. Even though the brothers--both professional chefs--dish haute cuisine daily, don't let their dishing up leftovers surprise you. Like most of us, they've got plenty in the refrigerator to use up ... and that's just what happens.
Kent Rathbun is chef/owner of Abacus restaurant in Dallas; Kevin is soon to open Rathbun's in Atlanta. The brothers grew up in Kansas City. Traditionally, the family alternates between the three cities for Thanksgiving.
On Sunday morning, Kent gets up first and starts cooking bacon so the aroma will get Kevin out of bed. A cup of coffee, then the two start opening up containers of leftover turkey, stuffing, gravy, and sweet potatoes.
"We get creative on the fly. We usually set out to do something that makes sense--like a strata--and just let it go. Sometimes it doesn't always look great, but it always tastes great," Kent says.
Kevin adds, "There's a very big mutual respect between us when we cook. We recognize the other may have a better idea. We bounce ideas as well as jokes."
First, the brothers decide what to do with the leftover turkey. They might use slices for Turkey Benedict (right) or a cup of cubed meat for Portobello and Lemon Thyme Bread Pudding (page 266). They also offer these options for using other Thanksgiving leftovers.
Cranberry sauce: Boil it down until it becomes a cranberry syrup, or toss the bright sauce into waffle, scone, or pancake batter.
Gravy: The brothers wax ecstatic about the wonders of gravy. "Put it into soup. It's a great base for any kind you can think of, such as pumpkin soup made with leftover pumpkin--a brilliant idea--or a turkey-and-dumpling soup."
Candied sweet potatoes: Use them in sweet potato pie or in bread pudding. Or make them Mexican by mashing them, adding Monterey Jack cheese and diced jalapeno, and serving in flour tortillas.
Green bean casserole: Use the casserole as the filling base for turkey pot pie. Or mix the casserole with bread crumbs, form patties, and saute them until crisp. Use the patties alone or as the base for poached eggs. Top either off by stirring together some leftover cranberry sauce and diced chile pepper.
Whether you're adapting an existing recipe to use up leftovers or making something up as you go along, the brothers stress confidence as a key ingredient. "Take a risk. Start small, add a little of something at a time," Kent suggests.
Once in the oven, "check your creation along the way," Kevin says. "Make sure it's not too wet or dry. Some leftover gravy can go a long or little way, depending."
By the time brunch gets on the table, Kevin and Kent will have cleaned out the fridge. Do too many cooks spoil the broth in the Rathbun household? "Not if they're good cooks," Kent jokes.