Bold, then, is the restaurateur who looks to launch a new eatery in a locale that was formerly a flop. Sometimes a spot has had multiple spectacular flameouts (like the Oh Maria!/Peach & The Frog/Fat Tuesday's/Azalea on Peachtree in Buckhead). Sometimes, a place has just worn out its welcome (such as yesteryear's Luna Si). Some spots cause you to scratch your head (why didn't Coohill's make it?). Sometimes successive spots fail (the infamous Cafe Mystique/Blais quagmire on East Paces Ferry) and don new guises to combat their accursed karma (will Che overcome?).

But hope springs eternal, especially among the risk-taking souls in the culinary trade. It's heartening to note the bonafide successes (Kyma's glorious reincarnation from a tire store and the former Fusebox). So, in the spirit of exorcising bad ju-ju, here are my choices for those who appear to be best resurrecting bad real estate with aplomb. My fingers are crossed for others that attempt the same.

Rathbun's

Rathbun's spectacularly ravishing reincarnation from bohemian (and oft empty) Virginia's has the town talking -- and rightly so. Located on the edge of Inman Park, the irrepressible Kevin Rathbun, a chef for the Buckhead Life Group in a former life, rarely makes a misstep on his extensive, rangy menu. It's great fun to share a number of small plates, including delectable sambal-tossed crispy calamari and astonishing shaved Georgia zucchini kissed with lemon verbena. The luscious sea scallop benedict with ham-studded grits pays homage to Southern cooking, while the succulent rosemary-

grilled flatiron steak is big-city bliss. The mini chocolate cube filled with plush Mexican chocolate mousse and subtle orange-chili créme brûlee are worth the caloric splurge.

112 Krog St., Suite R, 404-524-8280. www.rathbunsrestaurant.com.

Shiraz Persian Cuisine

This Persian restaurant in a strip center waayyy out in Alpharetta has been home to two failed eateries, but the Middle Easterners have triumphed at this spot. The opulent interior is matched by what may well be Atlanta's best buffet. I took two friends who lived in Iran for a number of years and we marveled over Royal Buffet 2 ($22 each), which includes an exotic variety of appetizers, salads, rice, stews and a combination platter of kabobs prepared to order for your table. The 8-year-old who accompanied us loved the warm lavash, slathering the crackly bread with butter while we dipped it in kashk-o-badenjoon, an earthy eggplant, whey, mint and onion spread. The ghaimeh, a cinnamon-scented stew of split peas and potato sticks is nutty and sweet, the ghormeh sabzi with spinach, kidney beans and beef is a delicious variation of Indian saag paneer without the cheese. Try everything, but save room for the kabobs: succulent top sirloin and koddbideh, gyro-like sausage. Do your part for world peace -- go eat.

11950 Jones Bridge Road, Alpharetta. 770-751-7272.

Short-lived Max & Angelo's is now a distant memory. Chef/owner Shaun Doty has created a true neighborhood bistro that manages to be chic and welcoming, drawing both dowagers and modelizers to his stylish Midtown digs. I'm partial to the fettucine with velvety organic chicken livers (like none other in town) and the bracing, Belgian-style beef tartare with capers and mayo served with what may be the city's most glorious frites (they are torment for Atkins adherents). The weightless, properly made chocolate souffle (have a half carafe of wine while you wait 10 minutes) dissolves on your tongue. This well-run brasserie, with its intelligently priced menu richly deserves its critical and commercial accolades. You'd swear it's been entrenched for more than a year.

Top Spice

At the busy section of Piedmont and Monroe in Midtown, in the shadow of busy Ansley Mall is a restaurant tucked in the corner, under an overhang. Nope, there's no street frontage for the space that is currently Top Spice, a Malaysian/Thai restaurant formerly home to Sierra Grill and the once-celebrated Ciboulette (and a couple failed ventures thereafter). This location shares the same beatific interior design as the original Top Spice in Toco Hills, with low lighting and spices displayed in glass peepholes under the table and graceful service. Try the beef rending (two chili peppers hint at the heat level) or the putri basket, a surf and turf combo of jumbo shrimp, scallops and chicken in a complex, almost black, sauce. The spicy basil lamb chops? Chargrilled ecstasy.

1529-F Piedmont Ave., 404-685-9333.

Taverna Plaka

This Greek eatery on a raunchy stretch of Cheshire Bridge used to house lumbering San Genarro, where the waiters sang Italian opera. In this Mediterranean incarnation, belly dancing and blaring music punctuated by occasional shouts of "opa" is the shtick. (Do I detect a theme here?) We were handed a mortar filled with garlicky, lemony chickpeas to crush with the accompanying pestle into delicious hummus, which we slathered on French bread (why not pita?). We got as far as ordering glasses of Greek robola and appetizers, before the raucous show began. So loud was the "performance," that my friend and I couldn't hear each other -- or manage a volume adjustment from the manager. We fled to protect our eardrums. Many people like this sort of acting up, which includes patrons dancing on tables. I suspect it is eminently more enjoyable if you bring earplugs, have been at a nearby strip club, are part of a rowdy group or are already drunk.