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 From haute cuisine to homestyle cooking, Atlanta has it all

By Deborah Geering, special for USATODAY.com

October 8, 2004

 
If Atlanta is your only stop in the South, you'll surely want to sample the homey cooking that is the regional specialty. But once you've gotten your fill of grits, biscuits and barbecue, you might want to test for yourself the city's growing reputation for excellent international fare.

Throughout the metro area, diners hungering for adventure will find excellent offerings of Indian, Vietnamese, Korean, Thai, Ethiopian, Persian, Greek, Central and South American and many, many other flavors. Although one can stumble across pleasant, established ethnic restaurants with solid reputations just about anywhere in the area, some of the best food is still waiting to be "discovered" by the mainstream restaurant crowd, tucked away in holes-in-the-wall on the Buford Highway corridor north of intown.

Meanwhile, the area's list of nationally noteworthy restaurants is growing. Two Atlanta restaurants carry AAA's prestigious five-diamond rating: The Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton, Buckhead, and Seeger's. And two others — Bacchanalia and Joel — consistently earn attention in national publications.

Still want Southern cooking?

Latest, hottest – Longtime Atlanta chef Kevin Rathbun has made a huge splash with his eponymous first restaurant, located a few miles east of Midtown Atlanta in Inman Park. You've got to love a menu that divides its new American cuisine into small plates, big plates and "Second Mortgage Plates." Hits at Rathbun's include tender braised brisket in smoked tomato quesadillas, smoked salmon tostadas and creamy white corn with gouda cheese. Entrees $14-$30. Don't miss the pastry chef's choice of four desserts for $10 — let Kirk Parks surprise you with delicacies such as banana peanut butter pie, lemon panna cotta and Mexican chocolate mousse. Reservations recommended. The inside feels dominated by the large bar, but the best seating is on the covered, landscaped patio, anyway. 112 Krog St., Suite R; 404-524-8280; www.rathbunsrestaurant.com.

Best Mexican — High-style Mexican food and quite possibly the best margaritas in town are two very good reasons to visit Sala, a casual-chic restaurant in the Virginia-Highland neighborhood in Midtown. Highlights include the super-fresh and chunky guacamole ($6.50), an outstanding duo of chiles rellenos ($15) and chicken breast with mole ($14.50). Reservations accepted. Minimalist decor and low lighting add to the small space's intimate feel. 1186 N. Highland Ave.; 404-872-7203; www.sala-atlanta.com.

Lebanese tapas — Not far from Northlake Mall on the eastern side of I-285 is Mezza, a frumpy-quaint, family-run bistro specializing in Lebanese fare. Grilled "squeaky" halloumi cheese, served with tomato and olive, bursts with salty flavor; the surprisingly substantial texture of almost crispy cooked chard and spinach is mellowed with caramelized onion in a dish called hindbeh. The little dishes of both vegetarian and non-vegetarian fare cost $6-$7 each; like tapas, you'll want to order several for the table along with a bottle of Lebanese wine. Reservations are generally not necessary for lunch or dinner. 751 Lavista Rd., Decatur; 404-633-8833; www.mezzabistro.com.

Elegant Vietnamese — Stylish and sexy, Nam is as much about sparse Asian cool as it as about the bright, intense flavors of owners Alex and Chris Kinjo's ancestral land. Rice flour tamales with shrimp and pork ($6.50), spicy claypot catfish ($12.50) and lemongrass tofu ($8.99) are all standouts at this Midtown spot. Reservations recommended on weekends. 931 Monroe Dr., Suite A-101; 404-541-9997; www.namrestaurant.com.

Latin American fusion — Much-loved by its devoted regulars since 1999, Tierra has been slowly but surely growing its reputation for an excellent rotation of specialties from Central and South America. The service — husband and wife chef/owners Dan and Ticha Krinsky take turns in the kitchen and attending the dining room – is as warm as the deep red of the walls. The menu might feature Argentinian beef tenderloin or Peruvian red snapper, but it will certainly offer the restaurant's famous tres leches cake – a butter cake soaked in a combination of fresh, evaporated and sweetened condensed milks. Entrees $16-$22. Reservations accepted. 1425 Piedmont Ave; 404-874-5951; www.tierrarestaurant.com.

A little bit of everything — Need a late-night burger? An early-morning latte? How about all-you-can-eat artisan pizzas and a glass of Chianti on Sunday evening? It's at MidCity Cuisine, a classy yet comfy American cafe on the southern edge of Buckhead. Prices range as widely as the menu, but plan to spend $10-$12 for a sandwich, $20-$30 for a dinner entree and $5-$14 for appetizers. Sunday night bottomless salad and pizza is $10 per person. Dinner reservations are a good idea but not required. 1545 Peachtree St.; 404-888-8700; www.midcitycuisine.com.

Mediterranean party — Eclipse Di Luna, a hard-to-find hideaway at the end of a row of design and decorators' shops on the edge of Buckhead, is still one of the best places in town to turn a business dinner or casual get-together into a party. The menu of $3-$5 tapas encourages everyone at the table to order and share. Be sure to try the cured Spanish ham and the seasoned roasted potatoes. Reservations accepted. 764 Miami Circle; 404-846-0449; www.eclipsediluna.com.

High Italian — Wood-roasted fish and fowl are among the specialties at Sotto Sotto, an outstanding Italian restaurant in Inman Park (three miles east of downtown Atlanta) that also features homemade pastas and an extensive wine list. The elegant, quiet setting makes it an excellent choice for a romantic evening or a low-key business dinner. Entrees cost $14 for most pasta dishes to $24 for the seared tuna or wood-roasted whole fish. Reservations recommended on weekends. 313 N. Highland Ave.; 404-523-6678; www.sottosottorestaurant.com.

French excellence — Joël, the creation of French chef Joël Antunes, has evolved from much-celebrated newcomer into a consistently excellent leader among Atlanta's restaurant elite. Foodies herald the high-concept brasserie in North Atlanta as one of the local scene's greatest enhancements. The menu of Asian-influenced French food rotates daily, but expect creations such as sautéed veal sweetbreads with gnocchi romaine, swiss chard and truffle sauce. Entrees $19-$38, and reservations are recommended. Sleek, clean lines in the main dining room as well as several private rooms and a "casual chic" dress suggestion make Joel as appropriate for wining and dining important clients as for a special night out with friends. 3290 Northside Parkway N.E.; 404-233-3500; www.joelrestaurant.com.

Unadorned Indian — If you're looking for elegant ambience, don't go to Madras Saravana Bhavan, located in a virtually unaltered former Folks chain restaurant set in a strip shopping mall 10 miles east of downtown Atlanta in Decatur. But if you want a glorious vision of the endless potential of vegetables seen through the lens of South Indian cuisine, then you'll be kneeling to kiss the faux brick floor by the time your very reasonable check arrives. This hopping restaurant features a menu about the length of a New Delhi phone book. Of special interest are the many dosai— plate-size savory cakes filled with seasoned potatoes, onions and other delectables. But don't feel limited to them — just choose a few random items (most entrees cost less than $10), order a beer and, when the food comes, steal a glance at a neighboring table if you need some guidance in Indian etiquette. No reservations. 2179 Lawrenceville Highway, Decatur; 404-636-4400; madrassaravanabhavan.net.

Finest dining — Often called Atlanta's finest restaurant, Seeger's offers modern-classical cuisine on a menu that changes daily. Chef-owner Guenter Seeger's dishes are admired for their presentation as well as flavor, but creations such as five-spiced squab with date chutney come at a price; meals can easily exceed $75 per person, not including wine. Contemporary design includes a winding cherry staircase and a curved marble bar. Reservations at this Buckhead eatery should be made at least 48 hours in advance. 111 W. Paces Ferry Rd.; 404-846-9779; www.seegers.com.

Seal the deal with beef — Atlanta has two Morton's of Chicago and three Ruth's Chris locations, but for a great steak and prices that will make you grateful you're on an expense account, try Bone's in trendy Buckhead. Located only in Atlanta, it's loud and lively, perfect for mutual back-patting after sealing a business deal. Walls cluttered with photos and the huge wooden bar add to the clubby atmosphere. The steaks, lamb and veal are excellent. Make sure someone in the group orders the big onion rings so the table can sample. And check out the great wine list. Entrees $24-$37; reservations are strongly encouraged. 3139 Piedmont Rd.; 404- 237-2663; www.bonesrestaurant.com.